Exhilarating Diving in the Maldives on board the
MV Sea Queen, January 2009
An introduction to the Maldives
The republic of the Maldives is a chain of around 1200 islands stretching 750km across the Indian Ocean.
The Islands are geographically grouped into ring shaped reefs called “atolls” and there are 26 of these atoll formations. An atoll encloses a central lagoon with a flat sandy bottom at a relatively shallow depth of 40-100m. The outer reef, which forms many of the islands, is often broken by deep channels that allow oceanic water to flow into and out of the central lagoon. Inside the atoll there are numerous smaller ring shaped reefs and Thilas.
Being in the monsoon belt of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives experience quite a complex weather pattern although the temperature remains fairly constant. There are two seasons, the North East season running from mid December to May and the wetter South West season running from May to November. The North East season is dryer and the winds and currents come from the North East. The South West season sees more rainfall with the winds and currents from the South West
Travel Information
As in most countries you must have a full passport with a minimum 6 months validity. On arrival at the airport in the Maldives you will be issued with a 30 day visa.
Emirates Airlines fly from Manchester to the Maldives via Dubai. Unfortunately they no longer allow the extra 10kgs for scuba equipment. If you want this it will cost you approximately £50. If you think you might go over the 20kg weight limit I would strongly advise paying the £50 as the excess charge is very expensive. You do have an option of flying with Sri Lankan Airlines who give you the extra 10kgs for free. The only problem is that you will have to get to London.
The Maldives is a Muslim country and under Islamic law the importation of alcohol is forbidden. If you are carrying duty free alcohol when you arrive in the Maldives and it is found by the customs officials, it will be taken from you and you will be issued with a receipt against which you will be able to claim it back on your departure.
On Board the Sea Queen
In the saloon area you will find a TV and DVD which you can use to watch a small selection of DVDs that are on board, however feel free to take your own DVDs as there is no problem watching them, that is if you can mange to stay up long enough after all the food and diving. In addition there is CD player to listen to your favourite tunes.
There are storage and charging points for videos, cameras and torches. All the power outlets are standard UK three pin 220V output. These are in the interior of the boat which is a dry area and as such you are expected to dry off before going inside.Complimentary tea, coffee, soft drinks and water from the cooler are available at any time. You just help yourself. The Sea Queen has an honour system for beer, wine, spirits and bottled mineral water. You can help yourself, you just mark down what you have taken on the sheet kept by the bar.
All the cabins are air-conditioned and are en-suite. The sleeping arrangements are in bunk beds. Don't expect anything to fancy, however I am 6 foot tall and 96kgs and found even the top bunk comfortable. Similarly don't expect great storage space. It is limited but as you are on a liveaboard you don't really need a great deal of clothes. I have found it more than adequate.Weather permitting, lunch and dinner will be served outside on the main table on the foredeck. The Chef is from Sri Lanka and the food he dishes up is absolutely fantastic. I will near enough guarantee you will not be disappointed with the food.
The Sea Queen is the where you live. They have a separate boat (dhoni) named Luna that you do the diving from. This is where your dive kit will stay for the duration of the trip. This is a great set up as once you have had your dive brief on the Sea Queen the Luna suddenly appears, you get on it, go and do the dive and then return to the Sea Queen. The Luna then drops away to fill the cylinders up and returns when you are ready for the next dive.
Diving
In order to make the most of the weather, sea and diving conditions the boat does not have a fixed route – their itinerary is flexible. The boat does not travel during the night due to the difficulty of navigating the many reefs.
The dive sites are chosen to ensure that you experience a range of diving and sites with regard to the experience levels within the group, strength and direction of the wind and currents, seasonal influences and which sites are 'working'.
A typical day on board would run along the following lines although timings are flexible:
06:30 Wake up call
06:50 Dive Briefing
07:00 Depart for Dive 1
09:00 Breakfast
10:50 Dive Briefing
11:00 Depart for Dive 2
13:00 Lunch
14:50 Dive Briefing
15:00 Depart for Dive 3
16:30 Afternoon Tea
19:30 Dinner
Types of Dive Site
There are a number of different types of dive sites in the Maldives. The most common dives are Kandus, Thilas and Giris.Kandus are channels or breaks in the reef which forms the atoll rim. The Kandus allow the flow of water from the ocean into or out of the atoll. This nutrient rich water attracts many pelagic and schooling fish, sharks, rays and more. However be prepared for strong currents as they flow in these passes.Follow the instructions from the the guides to get the best out of your dive.
A Thila is the name given to a reef inside of the atoll or in the middle of a Kandu. They vary in size, some can be circled in one dive, others will need a couple of dives. The top of the Thilas are usually found between 8 to 16 metres, with the bottom dropping off to the atoll plate. On many Thilas the place to see the action is at the 'current point': the side of the Thila which the current hits as it passes over. Reef hooks are allowed and if you want to see the action I would recommend buying one from the Sea Queen for approximately $15 . You could make your own if you wish, personally I couldn't be bothered
A Giri is similar to a Thila but the top will be only just below the surface.
The Maldivians will tell you that they way to distinguish between a Thila and a Giri is simply whether it is possible to drive a dhoni (typical Maldivian boat) over the top: yes it's a Thila, no it's a Giri.
Currents
Currents are what make the Maldives a very special place to dive. The nutrient rich waters attract huge numbers of fish and other marine life
There is a very small tidal range in the Maldives, yet under the water the currents can be disproportionately strong and very difficult to predict. The guides will always check the current strength and direction on each dive site before the dive. It is not a science and they can sometimes get it wrong, which has been very rare in my experience. Currents can flow in the same channel in different directions at different depths and I have experienced currents changing direction during a dive. It all makes for exhilarating diving.
The Dives
During the trip I managed to do 33 dives. I have selected a couple of entries from my log book just to give you a flavour of what to expect.
Rasfari, North Male
Stride entry into the blue. Followed Dave and Lisa to the reef where we saw a Manta Ray followed by a Black-Spotted Stingray. At maximum depth Mantas with two White Tip Reef Sharks and then a shoal of Mobula Rays came by.
Safety stop away from the reef. Once back on the boat we saw Mantas in the shallows. Guess what happened next? We jumped back in and enjoyed seven Mantas just circling us in 3m of water. It gets better. Back on the boat and on our way to the Sea Queen we spot a Whale Shark. Snorkels and fins on and back in swimming along side a 7m Whale Shark. What a dive!!!!!!
Maaya Thila, North Ari
This is one of the two sites that are used for Night dives.
Dropped over the side and went left shoulder. Found sleeping turtle, very active White Tip Reef Sharks a larger turtle that was hunting for Red Tooth Trigger fish. Loads of free swimming Morays and finished off with an Octopus.
MV Kudhima, South Ari
For all you divers who like looking a rusty bits of metal. I have included a wreck dive.
The MV Kudhima is a 62m Cargo-ship from Japan that was scuttled in 1999 as a divers attraction on the reef of Machchefushi.
Stride entry from the Luna, free descent and explore the wreck. Black-Spotted Eagle Ray on the sandy bottom tucked away. Lots of fish life: Blue Fin Jacks, Parrot fish, Groupers the list goes on. Forget to mention found a couple of Nudibranches.
Other stuff seen include: Grey Reef Sharks, Leaf Fish, Frog Fish, Ribbon Eels, Barracuda, etc. etc. You will tick off more creatures in one week in the Maldives then in the vast majority of other dive destinations.
I have been fortunate enough to go to the Maldives four times in the last five years, each time I have met people who return time and time again. Give it a go you won't be disappointed.
Terry Hooper
