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| Flights were from Manchester via Newark, New York, to the capital city, San José with a stop over at the Hotel Bouganvillea, on the outskirts of the town.
Diving around Cocos Island involved a 2 hour coach journey from the hotel followed by a 36 hour boat ride to Cocos, situated a few degrees north of the Equator in the Pacific Ocean west of Costa Rica, along a similar volcanic line to the Galapagos Islands situated further to the south.
Cocos Island has a mountainous terrain covered by almost inaccessible tropical rain forest and its coastline typified by steep cliffs and large numbers of nesting sea birds. Sunny intervals spent sun-bathing on deck were often interrupted by sudden thick clouds and torrential rain which was typical of the variability of the local weather with its tropical temperatures and heavy rainfall (8 metres per annum). Heavy swell characterises some of the dive sites and can be quite scary at times if you get too close to the rocks. The heavy rainfall is responsible for the many waterfalls along the forested coast – scenes that were used in the film Jurassic Park.
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The boat used for the trip is the very well equipped Sea Hunter, which can cater for 18 divers. Diving facilities, accommodation, catering, the dive crew and safety considerations are very good. Everyone is encouraged to dive on Nitrox because many of the dives are over 30m, often with square profiles on sea mounts. Nitrox courses are available on board if needed. Rebreather diving is also supported. All diving is from two small boats (pangas) which accompany the Sea Hunter. Diving kit is left on board the pangas between the three daily dives and the cylinders are filled in situ. Wall diving is common as well as sea mounts but coral reefs are not the typical scenery of Cocos Island. Instead, the diver can expect to see much bare volcanic rock with steep walls, overhangs, caves and swim-throughs.
Marine life is dominated by large animals – sharks, including whale sharks, rays (eagle, marble and mantas), dolphins and turtles, plus big shoals of fish such as bat fish, barracuda and jacks, often being attacked by large yellow fin tuna. The main reason for diving Cocos is the abundance of sharks, especially the shoals of hammerheads. |
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A typical dive is hauling yourself down the shot-line, often in a strong current, clinging on to the sea mount (reef hooks are a useful accessory), sometimes in a thermocline, and waiting for hammerheads to appear for cleaning. In the meantime white-tips and rays commonly appear as well as shoals of jacks. In fact white-tip sharks abound on most dives, also expect to see other types of shark including grey reef, silky and nurse sharks. Especially exciting is the shallow night dive when the sea floor is carpeted with a swirling mass of white-tips just below the divers’ fins hunting for an evening meal.
There are subjects for macro-photography including nudibranchs, lobsters, crabs, smaller fish, etc but it takes a bold photographer to reach for a 60mm or 105mm lens when there is such a wealth of wide-angle subjects. |
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In summary, diving around Cocos Island is exciting because of the abundance of marine life especially large animals and big shoals of fish. Cocos is shark diving heaven. Water temperature is around 28˚C, currents are variable, sometimes strong but sometimes non-existent, many dives are 30m plus and the swell is sometimes strong at some locations. Cocos is a suitable destination for divers with experience of varied diving conditions and who are comfortable in currents.
Other than diving, there are many other interesting activities to occupy the time in this wonderful country. These include trips to the cloud forests, coffee plantations, rumbling volcanoes erupting gases and ashes, plus opportunities to slide high in the tree tops in harnesses on steel cable “ropeways” called a canopy tour (not for the faint-hearted). Urban life is equally interesting especially a visit to the local casino where gun-toting locals may put a few shots into the ceiling much to the annoyance of the local “ladies” trying to ply their trade amongst the throngs at the bars amidst the sounds of the blaring music. |
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| Roy Cash |
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